Fog again

I waited until almost noon before leaving Jewell Island so that I would be able to see the islands and Fort Gorges on the way to Portland. But, as soon as I left the anchorage, the fog clamped down. It lifted for about a mile, when I was between Great Diamond Island and Peaks Island, so there were some views there.


No view of Fort Gorges, from sea, but once I picked my way into the harbor and moored at Centerboard Yacht Club, Jake picked me up and ran errands with me.

I got the propane tanks filled, bought stamps, and did my grocery shopping. Jake made a great dinner of scallops and haddock, with roasted vegetables! After dinner, Jean, Jake, Moxie (the dog) and I went for a walk around the tip of South Portland – finally got to see Fort Gorges!

Irony is a mineral

After a very peaceful night at anchor behind the Goslings, I was able to ponder the name of Irony Island. I got in the dinghy and went to visit the Goslings and Irony Island.


Both of the Goslings have camping areas and are extensively used by kayakers. They are beautiful little islands.

I think that the name of Irony Island does not come from and linguistic usage, but from the fact that the island seems to be made from iron ore. The reddish color of the rocks is different than any of the surrounding islands.

There was a welcoming committee of gulls and cormorants.

I had a good chat with a sailor from CT, talking about Chesapeake Bay and info about going through the Cape Cod Canal. After a nice 8-mile sail in the gloomy weather, I anchored in one of the most famous Casco Bay spots, Jewell Island. This anchorage is a narrow slot on the western side of the island, but is full of boats and is very narrow. I got there just in time to snag a good spot. By evening, and by the time it started raining, there were about twelve sailboats in this little area.

An historical diversion

After a peaceful anchorage at Harpswell harbor, in Harpswell Sound, complete with muffins for breakfast.......



........and the colorful Casco Bay Lines ferry.......

........I sailed down Merriconeag Sound to tour Eagle Island, the home of polar explorer, Adm. Robert E. Peary. There are a few moorings at this island, and there were no other cruising boats when I arrived, so it was easy to find a spot.

The island has several short walking paths and is a good place to stretch one’s legs.

The house is a great example of life in the early 1900s. Peary’s library looks like the inside of a ship and has a big polar bear skin rug and a sculpture of an eagle that are pretty neat.

Rincewind looked nice, as seen from Peary’s library, laying at her mooring.

After a couple of hours on the island, it is just two hour’s sail to my anchorage at the Goslings (yes, they are right next to Goose Island) and Irony Island.

Quahogs anyone?

Quahog Bay is one of the indentations in Casco Bay – and a beautiful anchorage is at its head – Snow Island. Nope – there is no snow, but a really protected and gorgeous anchorage.
Evening came and brought a classic Maine sunset. I also learned from Jean during a phone call that “Quahog” is pronounced “Coehog” – who would have thought?



There were a couple of classic osprey nests big in trees.


I went on a small expedition in Twoflower to Little Snow Island.



The sailing has been great so far in Casco Bay. Going in and out of the deep coves has meant lots of tacking or jibing, so lots of activity on the sailboat.

Leaving the Midcoast

The Maine coast is divided into regions and during this summer, I have traveled to the “Down East” area (Roque island), to “Mt. Desert Island”, “Penobscot Bay”, and the “Midcoast”. Now, leaving Sheepscot Bay, I am heading into Casco Bay, where I will spend the next few days. The sailing today is a reminder that sailing can be hard work, with the SW wind blowing 20+ knots and a big swell is coming from the ocean. It is a fun day as I go past “The Sisters” - yes, there are four of them – and Seguin Island.
Much of the day is spent beating into the wind until I make the turn in toward New Meadows River and end up on a nice broad reach.
Once I am up in the river, I pass a small boat full of people. I grab my camera to take their picture, just as they take a picture of Rincewind – laughter ensues.
I end the day in a beautiful, wonderfully protected anchorage in “The Basin”. It feels like a mountain lake. The entrance is hidden from the river and is a fun experience.

A change in plan leads to lobster

My day in Boothbay Harbor had taken longer than expected, so I didn’t want to try to make it all the way to “The Basin”, my next planned stop. I decided to head for “Five Islands” in Sheepscot Bay.

Sailing past Burnt Island Light (picture above) just outside Boothbay Harbor was the start to a beautiful day of sailing – long lazy tacks up the east coast of Southport Island, past The Cuckholds Light, and then a great run down Sheepscot Bay.

Five Islands turned out to be another rolly night spent on a mooring, but the location is really great.



Waves crash on the reefs that separate the harbor from the river, but Five Islands Lobster was a good location for dinner. It is really just a shack - serving lobster, steamers, potatoes, corn, and coleslaw. There are a bunch of picnic tables on the wharf for dining. I sat at the end of a table where a couple of folks from Bath were eating and they graciously shared their wine with me.



Traditionally a tuna fishing harbor, there were still a few little boats with long bowsprits used by the harpooner.

As with all Maine harbors, there were a few very classy homes. During the evening fireworks went off from a private beach in front of one of the houses.

Hot times in Boothbay Harbor

After ten days away from services, it was time for fuel, water, wi-fi, and food. Boothbay Harbor offered all of those things. Unfortunately, it also offered a very rolly mooring at Wotton’s Wharf which provided a really bad night’s sleep. I ended up putting a cockpit cushion on the cabin floor to try to minimize the distance I would roll up and down with the swell.

The passage from Witch Island was very foggy most of the time, with a big southern swell from the ocean.

I passed yet another Island named “Thrumcap” – I need to find out what that name implies. It seems that every section of the Maine coast has its Thrumcap Island.

Ram Island Light has a neat walkway from the house to the light.

Boothbay Harbor is very easy to enter and Rincewind was happy to renew her diesel and water supplies.

Lots of people in town, but it didn’t seem to be as nice a location as Camden for the casual tourist. It was very hot as I walked the mile to the local grocery store. I took a cab back to the boat and put Boothbay Harbor in my wake.